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The DITEX Parasitic Drain Tester (Current Monitor Pro) is designed еspecially for battery parasitic drain monitoring. This test evaluates and analyzes the level of parasitic current drain from the battery during the vehicle's shutdown phase and sleep periods.
Almost all new cars can drain their batteries over time. The continuous drain of a modern car, with everything shut down, is between 10 and 50mA/h (rarely up to 80mA max). Nevertheless, a battery should not drain to the point where it won’t be able to start the car after a few days. If your vehicle is drawing power from the battery and all of the lights and other electrical components are off, you might have a parasitic battery drain (or draw).
While you can typically identify the cause of a parasitic draw by connecting a digital multimeter to the negative battery terminal, using the DITEX Parasitic Drain Tester "Current Monitor Pro" is much easier and more reliable. The tester provides a straightforward way to connect a multimeter or oscilloscope (4mm banana sockets) to the vehicle's electrical system for diagnosing hidden battery drains. There are also a second pair of banana sockets on the other side, to which a set of current measuring probes and large crocodile clips are connected.
There are three ways you can use this device:
- Use this tool as a completely standalone device;
- With almost all digital multimeters;
- With any oscilloscope as a custom input probe.
The Current Monitor Pro has a sound alarm feature that activates when the leakage current exceeds a preset value. You choose the current threshold level from five possible ones: 100, 200, 300, 400, and 500mA. Thus, you don't need to stay beside the car to check the multimeter readings. The sound alarm functionality is beneficial when there is no parasitic drain during the measurement, and one appears later while all of the vehicle's electronic control modules are asleep. Whichever way of using the tool you have chosen, you can turn the built-in sound alarm on or off whenever you want.
With this tool, you are measuring the voltage drop across the embedded current shunt. If you add a custom input probe for an oscilloscope with a conversion ratio of 1V/1A, you will see the current of whichever system you are checking at that time.
Current Monitor Pro is the best, most convenient, and affordable tool to identify parasitic current leakages. There is nothing better on the market today!
Power supply |
2 x AA alkaline batteries |
Fuse protection for the current inputs
|
15A 5x20mm (veryfast acting fuse*) 20A for 5 minutes max 30A for 1 minute max 40A for 50mS 100A for 10mS max |
Current probe connectors
|
4mm banana socket (2pcs black) |
Multimeter probe connectors |
4mm banana socket (2pcs black and red) |
Measurement output |
2V (1V/1A) |
Rated continuous DC current |
±20A continuous |
Rated continuous dynamic current (high frequency current) |
± 20A |
Current threshold presets |
100mA,200mA,300mA,400mA,500mA |
Current measurement accuracy: |
3mA + (multimeter error) |
Sound alarm |
Buzzer (88dBA/10cm min. sound output) |
Low voltage alert |
Battery voltage is below 2V |
Auto power off |
Battery voltage is below 1.7V |
Weight |
0.5kg |
Key factors to consider when performing a parasitic drain test
In modern cars the continuous drain with everything shut down is about 40-50 milliamps. Typically, a normal amount of parasitic draw is between 10 and 50 milliamps. In rare cases, the parasitic current can reach 80mA. If your reading exceeds that level, it indicates a draw - and something is drawing too much power.
After removing the ignition key to turn off the engine and all electronics in your car, the time it takes for the control modules to enter sleep mode varies between separate vehicles. The exact time depends on the specific car. Wait for between 15 and 40 minutes to allow the vehicle's control modules to enter sleep mode.
There are several different testing methods to test for a draw, but the most reliable method is to hook an amperemeter in line with the negative battery cable. While this method yields the most accurate results, it can take more time to set up (having to remove the cable physically and then waiting for the modules to go to sleep after connecting the meter). Another method is using amps probes. However, the current clamp method usually does not provide good accuracy and is not a reliable form of testing.
How to make the bypass connection? Sketch
Our tests have shown that if the vehicle is petrol-powered, there is no need to bypass the Current Monitor Pro. However, if it is diesel, it is mandatory. The best practice in both cases is to ensure a parallel electrical connection first.
IMPORTANT: While the car ignition is ON, you must bypass the Current Monitor Pro device!
In other words, you must create a parallel electrical connection from the battery's negative terminal to the negative cable, which you will disconnect when you remove the ignition key.
WRONG! If you don’t make the bypass connection first and still turn ON the ignition (without turning the starter) with Current Monitor Pro connected, the current consumption can reach up to 60-70 amperes and the internal fuse of Current Monitor Pro will probably blow!
The best method is to bypass the connection between the negative battery terminal and the car chassis. 1. Make a parallel electrical connection first.
2. Next, disconnect the negative cable from the battery and attach the Current Monitor Pro device.
3. When everything is connected, remove the shunting wire. This way, the connection of the battery negative terminal to the chassis is never interrupted, so there is no need to turn on the ignition key for a while.
Note: Disconnecting of the battery negative terminal without turning ON the ignition for several seconds, can prevent the occurrence of parasitic consumption! For this reason, you may make the wrong conclusion that the car is OK.
REMEMBER: The best way to search the parasitic current drain is by measuring the voltage drop across fuses instead of pulling out the fuses. This way, you won't wake up some of the car's systems when you remove a fuse and have to wait for the car to go back to sleep.
To work with an open door, the vehicle needs to "think" the door is closed. This may require manually latching the door latch or closing a door ajar switch.
Some cars may also need all doors to be locked for all ecus to go back to sleep.